Zakynthos

Aerial view of the Navagio shipwreck cove, white cliffs and turquoise water on Zakynthos, Greece

Zakynthos is the green Ionian: olive groves, vineyards, and currants on the eastern plain, sheer white cliffs falling into glassy water on the west. Most travellers come for one image, the Navagio shipwreck under its own pale cliff. Most are surprised to find the rest of the island is gentler than the postcard suggests.

A note on Navagio. The beach itself has been closed since 2022 after a series of rockfalls, and the wreck of the Panagiotis broke apart in the January 2024 storms. The land viewpoint above the cove was also closed for safety. The cove is still worth seeing, but only from the water now: boat trips run from Porto Vromi and Cape Skinari, and you cannot land. This is the kind of detail that quietly dates a guidebook, so check the current status before you travel.

Zakynthos Town was rebuilt with care after the 1953 earthquake levelled most of it. Dionysios Solomos was born here in 1798; his Hymn to Liberty became the Greek national anthem, and the small museum on the harbour holds his manuscripts. The southern bay of Laganas is the principal nesting site for the loggerhead turtle, Caretta caretta, in the Mediterranean. The National Marine Park enforces dawn-and-dusk beach restrictions in nesting season; respect them.

Practical division of the island: base east, day-trip west by boat. Keri and Porto Vromi have the cliff coast. The Blue Caves at the northern tip, near Cape Skinari, are best at mid-morning when the light is right inside them. A boat from Agios Nikolaos costs about as much as a meal and takes a couple of hours.

House Notes

  1. Arrival

    Helistar and Ariston Aviation both handle the Athens–Zakynthos route by helicopter; Lesante Blu in Tragaki operates its own private helipad for direct property arrivals. Yacht guests: the harbour at Agios Nikolaos on the northern tip offers the more sheltered anchorage before tendering south toward the Blue Caves coast. ZTH receives private fixed-wing year-round; confirm slot clearance with the Port Authority in advance.

  2. The address

    Lesante Blu in Tragaki — an all-suite, adults-only house with a private dock from which the hotel's own yachts depart for excursions along the west coast. The on-site helipad takes rotary arrivals directly. Six suite categories, each with a private pool or jetted terrace on the seaward elevation; request the upper tier for the Ionian horizon.

  3. The kitchens

    Komis at Molos Port is the fish house on the harbour — a family table, locally sourced, with no concessions to the tourist trade. Malanos on Agiou Athanasiou Street, two kilometres south of town in a working farmyard, has been serving rabbit stifado, rooster in red wine, and stuffed aubergine for forty years. Prosilio, near Solomou Square, is the fine-dining address under Chef Krystallia Karageorgou, the list running deep in Ionian and Zakynthian wine.

  4. Avgoustiatis

    Goumas Estate at Trilagkada, near the village of Maries in the island's northwest, makes the definitive version of Avgoustiatis — an indigenous Ionian red variety grown in a semi-mountainous vineyard at 450 metres, planted in 1996. Giannis Giatras-Goumas runs the estate alongside an icon-painting workshop; tasting visits run daily from eleven in the morning. The Vostilidi white, from another indigenous Zakynthian variety, is equally worth taking home.

  5. Byzantine Museum

    The Museum of Zakynthos at 3 Solomou Square opened in 1960 to house the icon collection rescued from churches levelled in the 1953 earthquake. Its central achievement is the Ionian School panel — some 800 works spanning the Cretan tradition through to Panagiotis Doxaras, who trained in Venice and carried Western naturalism into Orthodox form. Open daily except Tuesday, 08:30 to 15:30.

  6. Mount Skopos

    The path begins at the southeast edge of Argassi and climbs to the Monastery of Panagia Skopiotissa — built before the mid-15th century and granted to the Logothetis noble family in 1534 — at 492 metres. Allow ninety minutes to the summit; the final section uses a fixed rope. The south face looks over Laganas Bay; the north face, on a clear morning, carries the eye as far as Kefalonia.

  7. Porto Limnionas

    A narrow fjord inlet on the western coast, forty minutes by road from town down a track that reduces to a single lane at the end. There is no sand; entry is from rock into a protected channel between two limestone walls, with almost no swell or current. The cavern system to the left of the inlet is swimmable at low sea. The cove holds still in conditions that close the open west-coast beaches.

  8. Gerakas

    The eastern nesting beach on the Vasilikos peninsula is Zone A of the National Marine Park; access runs from 7 a.m. to sunset only, 1 May through 31 October, with a daily cap of 350 visitors. No umbrellas or sun furniture beyond five metres from the waterline. Nesting runs May to August; hatchlings emerge through October. Do not route a morning beach session here without first checking the turtle warden count at the kiosk.

  9. Saint Dionysios

    The patron saint is celebrated twice: 24 August, marking the transfer of his relics from Strofades in 1717, and 17 December, the date of his death in 1622. The silver reliquary — made in 1829 by Diamantis Bafas of Kalarrytes, Epirus, and his son George — is carried through the town at dusk accompanied by philharmonic bands. Among Greece's "walking saints", his slippers wear through in the reliquary and are replaced periodically; the old leather is cut and distributed to pilgrims.

  10. The window

    Mid-May through mid-June and September for the best combination of warmth, open water, and workable numbers on the island. July and August bring direct charter traffic from northern Europe, package concentrations around Laganas, and serious heat in the interior. The National Marine Park's beach restrictions run 1 May through 31 October — factoring Gerakas and the south-coast nesting beaches into any east-peninsula itinerary is essential before the end of October.