Bill&Coo Mykonos opened its 2026 season on 15 April, and the fine-dining room on Megali Ammos came back changed. YĒVO now runs on fire. Under executive chef Angelos Bakopoulos it carries two tasting journeys — the Chef Experience, structured and technical, and Pyra, cooked over wood — and, alongside them for the first time, a card a guest may order from. Dinner is served from 20:00 to 23:00, in a room that takes the sunset.
Pyra
Pyra is the ancient Greek word for fire, and it is the more interesting half of the pair. Flame, wood and what the kitchen calls minimal intervention do the work that technique would otherwise be asked to do: the produce is Greek, the handling is restrained, and the heat is the argument. The service is narrative-led rather than ceremonial — the pace belongs to the table, and each plate is talked through rather than announced.
The register is not austere. A smoked goat’s-milk ice cream with charred strawberries and burnt meringue has been among the desserts, which is a fair indication of how far the fire is allowed to travel through a meal. Behind it sits a wine list running to 43 pages, Greek producers set against international ones.
The card
The quieter development is the à la carte, and it may be the one that matters more. A fine-dining room on Mykonos that will let a guest order three plates rather than commit to a sequence is making a particular kind of offer, and it is not the usual one. Set beneath the two journeys rather than in place of them, the card reads less as a retreat than as a settling: a kitchen confident enough in its produce to serve it in whatever order the evening wants.
The chef
Bakopoulos’s appointment to the Bill&Coo kitchens was reported in November 2023, as successor to Dinos Foteinakis, and the group’s tables have been his since. He took his first executive post at 26, at Doryssa on Samos, and worked across Santorini, Zakynthos and Mykonos before Megali Ammos — a Greek-island career rather than a Parisian one, which shows in the cooking.
What he does outside the restaurant is the better tell. Among the villas at Bill&Coo lies a walled garden the house calls Bostani, the Greek for garden, where herbs are grown a few metres from where they are eaten. Bakopoulos cooks there at a wood-fired oven set beside the table, sending out Mykonian cheese pie, tzatziki and moussaka to be passed around. It is the same fire as Pyra, put to an entirely different purpose, and the two are plainly the same idea held at different temperatures.
The house behind it
Bill&Coo opened in 2006 with 32 suites above Megali Ammos Bay, and took its name from the old English phrase billing and cooing — to kiss and talk quietly — which on this island reads as a position rather than a pleasantry. The olive oil poured across all of its tables comes from the founder’s family groves.
It is two houses now. The original stands ten minutes’ walk from Mykonos Town along a path that runs into the centre. The Coast, at Agios Ioannis, opened its own 2026 season on 16 May: 25 suites on a sheltered cove looking across to Delos, where Coozest sets traditional Greek cooking, its tomatoes drawn from the bostani. A shuttle runs between the two, so a guest may take the beach at one and dinner at the other without moving a suitcase.
Why it reads as a change
Mykonos has never wanted for tables. What it has more rarely offered is a kitchen willing to subtract — to put a piece of fish over wood and let that be the whole of the gesture. Fire cooking is not new to Greece; it is close to the oldest thing here. Building a fine-dining menu around it, on an island that generally rewards volume, is the departure.
Whether Pyra holds its nerve through August, when every room on Mykonos is full and the temptation to please everyone is strongest, is the only question worth asking of it. The answer arrives one season at a time.
The house makes the introduction, for those who ask.
