Olvo is the restaurant of Andronis Minois at Parasporos, Paros, carved out of the tiered ground the house stands on, with the Aegean in front of it. The cooking is what makes it worth a table: Greek regional dishes built on named Greek produce, most of them finished over charcoal, and a wine list that works through the Cyclades island by island before it leaves Greece at all.

The house has 44 suites, and Olvo is the one restaurant in it, alongside a hands-on Greek cooking class. Service runs 1pm to 4pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm. The address is Parasporos, postcode 84400.

The head chef is Anastasios Tsantilas, who has more than ten years in high-end restaurants and hotels. He began cooking in his family’s kitchen, helping his grandmother, then apprenticed under a Japanese sushi master before working through Greek cooking. The menu he sets his name to now is Greek regional cooking under that one trained hand.

The menu

The salad the kitchen gives its own name to is built on xynomizithra from Paros, the island’s soft sour cheese, with cherry tomatoes, dry capers, pickled onions and carob rusks, at 23 euros. Fava comes with fried capers and more pickled onion. Artichokes go into the Josper charcoal oven and arrive with a vegan basil pesto: the grill takes the vegetables as well as the cuts. The cuts run from chicken breast to a 250gr rib eye at 52 euros and a honey-marinated half chicken for two.

The pasta follows the regions. Bourdeto from Corfu is served over calamarata with fresh fish, lemon butter, tomato and thyme. Tagliolini comes with tartare of Greek gambari shrimp, lime, garlic and bottarga powder. The most expensive pasta is a lobster spaghetti alla chitarra with bisque, at 64 euros. Among the main courses are lamb fricassee with grilled wild greens and avgolemono, the egg and lemon sauce, and revithada, the baked chickpea dish, here with slow-cooked grouper and a spice blend. Fresh Aegean fish is priced by the kilogram, at 110 euros, or 130 for the premium selection, and the premium cuts are a daily selection the waiter recites. Of the two sauces offered beside the grill, the romesco is made with Florina peppers.

The wine list

The list is signed by wine director Sotiris Kandylis and written in two parts, the Cyclades first and the rest of the world after. The first part runs island by island: Syros, Tinos, Naxos, Paros, Santorini. Paros is given more entries than Santorini. Moraitis Winery’s PDO Paros, a monemvasia, is 46 euros, and so is Seiradi from the Paros Farming Community, PDO Paros, from the same grape. Roussos Estate shows three bottles from 41 to 50 euros, and a fourth by the glass. Only then does the list cross to Macedonia, the Peloponnese, Crete and abroad. A count made in July 2024 put it at about 90 labels, drawn from Greece, France, Italy, Spain and New Zealand.

At the table

The indoor dining rooms are smoke-free, smoking is confined to the bar areas and pets are not accommodated. In the 2026 season the restaurant programmed three harp evenings with Kostas Miliotakis, a harpist and composer, who played lounge music, ethnic melodies and Greek standards from 7pm, the last of them on 7 August 2026.

Who is this for

The table suits a long meal taken in order. Homemade sourdough comes first at 7 euros, then a beetroot salad with smoked tsalafouti and black garlic skordalia, or taramas dusted with fig leaf powder. Vegetables carry as much of the menu as fish does: roasted cauliflower with hazelnut crumble and curry mayo, broccolini under green tahini and yogurt. Finish on pistachio kataifi with homemade pistachio ice cream. A vegetarian eats well here, and so does anyone who reads a wine list end to end.